I have talked about the rise of the separates in popularity for a while now. SS18 runways cemented their importance. I believe it was the first time to see so many. And this is because they translate really well the current mood of “put together” / “hybridisation” trend. Also, they are great vehicles for another seasonal trend; the layering trend.
In this fourth and final post of my SS18 Runway Overviews (phew), I choose to present the must haves for tops, trousers, and skirts.
T o p s
Alexander Wang was the first to toy with the idea of ‘hybridisation’: merging different styles together. That negligee / sweatshirt number is an instant classic. It takes artful pattern-making to achieve but the results are incredible.
When you think of summer, outerwear and knitwear are not the first things to come to mind. That is if you live on the northern hemisphere and closer to the equator. But remember in other places of the planet SS18 collection hits the shops just when their autumn starts.
Reverse seasonality aside, recently the two product categories have been growing stronger each. Even for the summer, designers choose to pay more attention to them. Below I summarise this season’s key take-aways for the two categories. I also added a little something on suits; just because I want to, and because they kind of go with the dress-for-all-weathers theme I wanted to highlight…
O u t e r w e a r
The below styles are great examples of the biggest theme of the season; the “homemade” trend. Contrasting fabrications put together, and unexpected materials used for outerwear, result in an overall “put-together” look.
If I had to summarise the key messages from the SS18 runways, I would say that they were all about empowerment & play on what feminine is. Is power dressing less feminine than a strappy dress? Does a woman fully covered in a maxi dress look less sexy than a woman in a tiny LBD? Not really.
Stop thinking either or, think how different opposing styles can be merged together. ‘Hybridisation’ is the answer, and Alexander Wang’s spliced negligee and sweatshirt tops are a great example for this trend. More on this in my next post…
Throw in the mix a touch of the “homemade” (major direction – take notes), and the right amount of bad taste and you have a show. If you are looking for old Hollywood glamour, you should look away now!
Let’s see what is happening with dresses and key details…
D r e s s e s
As predicted in previous posts, one shoulder and empire-waist dresses are making a comeback. Shirtdresses continue to be a stable product category for most brands; becoming as classic as the LBD. However, please note that this season they are deconstructed and longer in length.
Overall, shapes felt more relaxed and flirting with gravity; no dress was too short or too tight…
What else is going on? Check below for my pick:
Fraggle Rock dresses
Feather galore and Fraggle Rock references make me happy. Where and why would one wear these I have no idea but I love…
SS18 collections will not go down as ground-breaking nor as game changing. There were quite a few directions revisited, and a few others that were elevated to a newer version of their previous reincarnations. I am referring to the polka dots, the micro-tops, dobby fabrics, the athleisure hybrids, the frills and ruffles and the one shoulder cut. Once again there were floral prints, shorts, trench coats…come on guys it is summer after all!
Having said that, it feels really refreshing to see designers re-working ideas; developing them further, before moving on. I will always insist that we need to slow down. We need to go back to the process of seeing, negotiating with ourselves: “shall I buy shall I not”, digesting the info, before consuming, wearing, and moving on to the next trend.
In the next four posts I look into all the major directions dominating SS18 runways. I start with colour, print and accessories. All shows have been curated based on my favourite new trends and looks. Enjoy!
C o l o u r
Pink is dead long live the pink. No folks, pink is going nowhere. It is simply diversifying; check its new shades: raspberry, watermelon, and the sharpest of intense Other colour hot for the coming season are: Yellow and Red (especially worn together), lilacs, together with Azure and Persian Blues. Also, pay attention to sage green, mint, burgundy, and orange. Phew..Whether you choose sorbet heaven or deep saturation, one thing is for sure, we will be seeing a lot more colour going forward.
I don’t want to simply summarise the colours of the season but to choose the most interesting colour combinations for these key colours.