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SS18 Runway Overviews: Vol.2

If I had to summarise the key messages from the SS18 runways, I would say that they were all about empowerment & play on what feminine is. Is power dressing less feminine than a strappy dress? Does a woman fully covered in a maxi dress look less sexy than a woman in a tiny LBD? Not really.

Stop thinking either or, think how different opposing styles can be merged together. ‘Hybridisation’ is the answer, and Alexander Wang’s spliced negligee and sweatshirt tops are a great example for this trend. More on this in my next post…

Throw in the mix a touch of the “homemade” (major direction – take notes), and the right amount of bad taste and you have a show. If you are looking for old Hollywood glamour, you should look away now!

Let’s see what is happening with dresses and key details…

D r e s s e s 

As predicted in previous posts, one shoulder and empire-waist dresses are making a comeback. Shirtdresses continue to be a stable product category for most brands; becoming as classic as the LBD. However, please note that this season they are deconstructed and longer in length.

Overall, shapes felt more relaxed and flirting with gravity; no dress was too short or too tight…

What else is going on? Check below for my pick:

Fraggle Rock dresses

Feather galore and Fraggle Rock references make me happy. Where and why would one wear these I have no idea but I love…

SS18 Runway Overviews

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SS18 Runway Overviews: Vol.1

SS18 collections will not go down as ground-breaking nor as game changing. There were quite a few directions revisited, and a few others that were elevated to a newer version of their previous reincarnations. I am referring to the polka dots, the micro-tops, dobby fabrics, the athleisure hybrids, the frills and ruffles and the one shoulder cut. Once again there were floral prints, shorts, trench coats…come on guys it is summer after all!

Having said that, it feels really refreshing to see designers re-working ideas; developing them further, before moving on. I will always insist that we need to slow down. We need to go back to the process of seeing, negotiating with ourselves: “shall I buy shall I not”, digesting the info, before consuming, wearing, and moving on to the next trend.

In the next four posts I look into all the major directions dominating SS18 runways. I start with colour, print and accessories. All shows have been curated based on my favourite new trends and looks. Enjoy!

C o l o u r 

Pink is dead long live the pink. No folks, pink is going nowhere. It is simply diversifying; check its new shades: raspberry, watermelon, and the sharpest of intense Other colour hot for the coming season are: Yellow and Red (especially worn together), lilacs, together with Azure and Persian Blues. Also, pay attention to sage green, mint, burgundy, and orange. Phew..Whether you choose sorbet heaven or deep saturation, one thing is for sure, we will be seeing a lot more colour going forward.

I don’t want to simply summarise the colours of the season but to choose the most interesting colour combinations for these key colours.

SS18 Runway Overviews - ColourSS18 Runway Overviews - ColourSS18 Runway Overviews - Colour

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Postcards from NYC

Ahhh New York, the big Apple, the “if you can make it here you can make it anywhere” metropolis…The city that energises you like no other. I am a true believer that if you don’t love NY, there must be something wrong, maybe a childhood trauma.

I was over there recently for work but managed to steal a couple of minutes to walk around Manhattan and Brooklyn and snap shot whatever caught my attention. Consider this post a digital postcard to all of you, with lots and lots of love…

Positive thinking 

It was my first visit post election day and I was wondering how a city always looking outwards was dealing with all the changes and challenges. Funny, how the president is a New Yorker but does not share beliefs with most of his fellow city dwellers. How do New Yorkers fight back? With positive messages popping up everywhere; on printed canvas bags, on door mats, on the pavement…

L-R: Artist’s Gallery at D.U.M.B.O. Brooklyn; Chalk on pavement on lower 7th Avenue; welcome door matt @ Feed Brooklyn

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Why Fashion Fetishises the Working Classes

Roughly 15 years ago, Burberry faced a dilemma. Its trademark check was loved and worn like a uniform by the working classes, something ‘fashionistas’ looked down upon. The heritage brand thought its kudos was quickly diminishing; they believed the fashion world could not take a brand dressing the ‘masses’ seriously.

Burberry had to make a choice between turning its back to the people who proudly invested in the brand, or embrace them and be banished by the fashion powers that be. Guess what, the working classes were abandoned by the brand, and their loyalty branded shameful and cheapening.

Gosha Rubchinskiy SS18 runway show - courtesy of the designer

Back then nothing good or creative could be associated with the ‘chav’, the ‘roadman’, the ‘gopnik’, the ‘eshay’, or whatever you want to call the poor working classes. Fashion back then was still considered ‘high-culture’, ‘wearable art’, and exclusive to the few. Yes, it was a snobbish approach, and alienating if not discriminatory, but it is important to state that this approach is now redundant.

Only recently the reference designer Gosha Rubchinskiy sent a model dressed head-to-toe in the Burberry check with the blessings of Christopher Bailey. How the wheel turns. What has changed that made the majority of young and influential designers unapologetically borrow from the working class aesthetic? How has the world, and consumption patterns changed, to allow current creatives to stop ignoring but actually ‘fetishise’ the working class?

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