Did you have time to compile a list yet? Have you decided what you will invest in? You have just enough time to do your research and narrow it down to that really special AW17 piece.
According to analysts, one of the current biggest retail consumer tendencies is ‘research and then investment’; thoroughly looking through all options and spending a tiny bit more if it is justified. Throw-away fashion is polling worse and worse each year. Younger consumers especially, prefer making an informed choice; even when looking for a plain white t-shirt; the quality of cotton, its production processes, and its design detailing are factors as important to them as price.
So, to make your decision about what you will invest in for AW17 even more difficult, why don’t you check below my favourite AW17 knitwear, outerwear, trousers, shirts, tops and skirts?
With the plethora of amazing overcoats on offer, this is the best season for you to choose a statement coat – are Marco de Vincenzo’s and Katrantzou’s printed coats big enough of a statement for you?
Longer lengths continue to be relevant and leather is becoming a major material for the season (mental note coloured leather is resurfacing); check out those Matrix-like overcoats by Li and Theyskens. If leather is not for you, why don’t you go for checks; especially Prince of Wales checks?
Major trend alert: oversized pockets are everywhere this season!
Fun-factor: the Chewbacca jackets
My favourite look: cropped saturated-blue biker jackets; nailing two trends in one go.
AW17 product is being delivered to shops near you as we speak. It doesn’t matter if you are not ready, or that you are currently only interested in discounted SS17 clothes. This is how the industry works. To get you in the mood for the new season, I have gone through all AW17 catwalks and selected styles that look fresh, but also have some life in them. What do I mean by that? Simple; this is a list of directions that will be hot this winter and remain relevant for seasons to come.
In this first part of my AW17 must-haves report I include my favourite dresses, denim product, suits, prints and accessories. My methodology was simple; I went through 3K photos and looked for investment pieces with a point of difference, and of course pieces I liked. No one said this was a democratic process!
Day-to-night is no longer an incomprehensible concept. Designers nailed the perfect shape and fabrications that can take women from office to that hot, newly-opened restaurant. Buy one in checks, with long sleeves and in longer length. Extra brownie points if you go for mix-media fabrications, or invest in a dress in thicker ponte, backloop sweatshirt or bonded fabrications. Want more to excite you, oh, I got more: be daring and wear an all over sequinned midi. Sequins are not only for weddings. Dress them down with a denim jacket or a cropped biker and you are onto a winner.
Investment for the Future: Anything with vertical slashes and that 1940s shape championed by Bottega Veneta. We are only just beginning dipping our toe into the 40s pool…
My favourite look: Pay attention to those oversized pockets – and ask yourself who needs a handbag when you have these pockets?
We expect the fashion coming out of London to push boundaries, and it does. But interestingly enough, men’s shows this season while still challenging, felt incredibly wearable. They were more mature, more thought through, concentrating on how the clothes translate to the street without losing sight of the message. And God did AW17 shows have strong messages…
We had the norm gender-bending, gender-defying message, a stable for British brands, but this time it was less gimmicky. It felt less of a concept for the fashion crowd’s internal consumption, and more of a discussion on how modern men view their masculinity. For example, why is it ok to wear lycra trousers when doing sports and not when walking down the street? Why does playing with proportions, and distorting the balance of the body, is a womenswear only preoccupation? It was less of a drag show, and more of a sincere question on gender defining attributes.
But what raised a few eyebrows in the post-Brexit referendum era, were the political messages communicated by many designers. In a few shows the message was very subtle; with clothes that looked battle-ready, or with clothes that felt as if they have been bruised by a battle. However, Christopher Shannon, not shying away from a clearer stand on Brexit, sent models down the runway with melted flags obscuring their faces. And to make things even more straight-forward his play on Hugo Boss’s logo, spelling ‘Loss international’, summarised the feeling many young people have in the UK.
But to the point, there were a few distinctive trends emerging from the AW17 runways. Menswear brands overcame the division between performance-wear and daywear; the merging of the two was complete and did feel sincere; a fresh approach to “athleisure”. What also excited me was how ‘utility’ was brought to the next level; proving that juxtaposing utilitarian and a design-focused approach can be irrelevant. Designers showed us that a happy co-existence is possible. But there was a micro-trend, related to these utilitarian-performance-daywear hybrids, I cannot wrap my head around. What is it with all the ski-wear down-filled jackets, trousers, and separates? Even my ski-crazy friends will struggle to stand behind this…
I have had a great time, albeit a difficult one, putting together this two-part party season special. It is unbelievable how many options there are out there for the ‘festive’ season. But options do not necessarily mean one has a choice. Researching online for this Christmas special extended edit, I was surprised to see how the luxury and contemporary segments look so much stronger than the high-street.
It seems that all affordable brands were offering similar product but competing on pricing. No surprise there. But this lack of creativity, excitement, and freshness is worrying. Slavery to trends and an unnecessary involvement in the vicious circle of pricing wars is never good. I just cannot believe how many short velvet strappy dresses, and sequin shift dresses I had to go through. Unlike the more exclusive brands, high-street retailers are still targeting the same consumer, ignoring certain taste-levels and age groups.
But allow me to end in a positive note and congratulate &Other Stories for its amazing and provoking offer, and Ellery for its very special product. Happy holidays everyone and a let us all enjoy a better 2017! On with the outfits…
She is a hipster reloaded. Like Ellen Ripley in Aliens, she is readier, punchier, a hold-no-prisoners version. When the whole world has started copying her style and her life choices, she moves on. When everyone starts investing in the 90s, what she did last year, she moves on to the 80s.
From left to right (L-R): Acne Studios leather shearling overcoat; MSGM crepe shirt with ruffle details; Tabula Rasa hand macramé skirt with pompoms; Carven mini leather shoulder bag; Laurence Dacade platform boots.