Home » London Fashion Week Men’s AW17 Trends

London Fashion Week Men’s AW17 Trends

We expect the fashion coming out of London to push boundaries, and it does. But interestingly enough, men’s shows this season while still challenging, felt incredibly wearable. They were more mature, more thought through, concentrating on how the clothes translate to the street without losing sight of the message. And God did AW17 shows have strong messages…

We had the norm gender-bending, gender-defying message, a stable for British brands, but this time it was less gimmicky. It felt less of a concept for the fashion crowd’s internal consumption, and more of a discussion on how modern men view their masculinity. For example, why is it ok to wear lycra trousers when doing sports and not when walking down the street?  Why does playing with proportions, and distorting the balance of the body, is a womenswear only preoccupation? It was less of a drag show, and more of a sincere question on gender defining attributes.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: Christopher ShannonBut what raised a few eyebrows in the post-Brexit referendum era, were the political messages communicated by many designers. In a few shows the message was very subtle; with clothes that looked battle-ready, or with clothes that felt as if they have been bruised by a battle. However, Christopher Shannon, not shying away from a clearer stand on Brexit, sent models down the runway with melted flags obscuring their faces. And to make things even more straight-forward his play on Hugo Boss’s logo, spelling ‘Loss international’, summarised the feeling many young people have in the UK.

But to the point, there were a few distinctive trends emerging from the AW17 runways. Menswear brands overcame the division between performance-wear and daywear; the merging of the two was complete and did feel sincere; a fresh approach to “athleisure”. What also excited me was how ‘utility’ was brought to the next level; proving that juxtaposing utilitarian and a design-focused approach can be irrelevant. Designers showed us that a happy co-existence is possible. But there was a micro-trend, related to these utilitarian-performance-daywear hybrids, I cannot wrap my head around. What is it with all the ski-wear down-filled jackets, trousers, and separates? Even my ski-crazy friends will struggle to stand behind this…

 

Colour – Print

There were beautiful colours on show. Yellows, Purples, but those ceramics, camels, and reds…yum. Is it too soon to talk about peach? By the way, I want that Xander Zhou suede overcoat. I know it is not practical in London but who cares? Caring is a concept contested very hard in 2016. Maybe is my turn to do so…

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: Colours

 

Are men ready for the total-look? Have men always preferred dressing in a single colour from top to bottom? Irrelevant questions for many designers as they showed total-looks, broken up with pastel accents, or worn with a contrast colour, or a flash of an unexpected colour. Yellow and black anyone? Erm…

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: Colour combinations

 

We had camouflage (suitable for the battle-ready trend), hand-painted prints (love the J.W. Anderson one), and an ode to personalisation with the use of text and messages on garments. The “social-media-engagement” design award goes to Bobby Abley for his perverse power rangers prints!

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: Prints

 

Separates

“Cargo” trousers were all the rage. But it was really interesting to see how designers were emphasising fit over look (carrot fit, and longer lengths). Another trend borrowed from womenswear was tie-waist trousers. Last year I was swearing I would never wear ‘cargo’ trousers, neither would I wear elasticated waists. Well, I’m reconsidering, at least I am open minded…

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: trousers

 

How can you reinvent the wheel every season? How different can shirts or basic t-shirt be? Well, check below my selection of cool new offerings.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: Shirts and T-shirts

 

Question: is knitwear not good enough for the runway? There were not many knit designs on the runways, at least, not many show-stoppers. Having said that, it was cool to see the return of the cardigan, and fun to see Oliver Spencer’s twin-set knitwear. Another interesting shape making a comeback was that of the relaxed funnel neck jumper.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: knitwear

 

Outerwear

Bomber jackets and zip-up outerwear are still relevant. Trench coat shapes were re-worked with different fabrics. There was a puffer jacket overload but not quite the ski-ready type. They were sliced and diced, with mix-media fabrications that made them look less “Alps-warrior” and more “Urban-Siberia”. Is this even a thing? Well, I just made it up! Mental note: check out the longer lengths coming through.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 Trends: outerwear

 

Personal favourites / mental shopping lists…

I said it before, for me menswear is too personal. It is a struggle to detach myself and see them as objects, the way I do with womenswear. While going through looks I am making mental shopping lists, which look a bit like this: oversized wool overcoats, cropped bomber jackets…How many black jackets can a person own? Looking at Songzio’s one, the answer is never too many.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 personal favourite: outerwear

 

E.Tautz’s hipster gentleman outings were fab! Fantastic colours, and colour combinations. Great play with different patterns, textures, and style combinations.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 personal favourite: E. Tautz

 

Oliver Spencer’s reinvention of the modern gentleman was fun. Loved his play with the stereotype of the umbrella-carrying gentleman and how men want to dress today.

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 personal favourite: Oliver Specer

 

Agi & Sam’s outerwear offer was unbelievable. Wearable and at the same time design-quirky!

London Fashion Week Men's AW17 personal favourite: Agi & Sam

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